Aubrey suggests that half bottles are a wiser route than glasses — a better selection, and the menu is designed to work from lighter dishes pairing with white to richer pairing with red, even the “Tasting of Vegetables” my wife opts for. I want to be led, as it’s the menu she knows, even if it’s created new each day, and I want to be surprised. Of course she asks what kind of whites we like, and it seems coy and glib to say, “Any one that’s good,” even if it’s close to the truth. So I say, “Rhone whites,” as I’ve had some lascivious dreams about Roussanne.
Read more about this once-in-a-lifetime dinner here.